R2R - A Grand Time
Back in February Kyle asked me about going to the Grand Canyon to hike the canyon rim to rim (R2R). After a cursory review of what that meant I quickly responded - no thanks, that sounds terrible. After it stewed for a bit I began to consider the idea thinking that it could be an epic experience and not likely that I would find anyone else crazy enough to do it. So, I climbed on the treadmill.
That treadmill became my mistress and after training 5-6 days a week for a few months I spent most of the of the day in airports and flying, arriving in Phoenix on Thursday, May 13th. Upon stepping out of the terminal to catch the rental car shuttle I questioned whether we had landed in Phoenix or on the surface of the sun...It was HOT (there was still frost in the mornings at home). After a 20 minute shuttle ride I procured the rental and waited for the rest of the crew to arrive from Atlanta. Quick hellos and we loaded up the minivan off in search of tacos then north to the Cliff Castle Casino in Camp Verde, AZ for our first night's stay.
We left the casino Friday and continued north toward Sedona where Mallory, Kyle and myself hiked to Devil's Bridge while Bryan and Michael hiked Capitol Bute before we all headed to Flagstaff for pizza and groceries. After buying more groceries than we needed we rolled on to the South Rim where we had rooms reserved at the Yavapai Lodge. We checked in and set off to scout the trailheads and routes for Saturday's hike. After scoping out the trailheads we grabbed burgers from the lodge and then went to prep for tomorrow's big adventure and try to go to bed early and get some sleep.
Up at 2:45 AM we did our last minute preparations for our hike. We would drop Bryan and Kyle off at the South Kaibab trailhead at about 3:45 AM and then head to the Bright Angel trailhead to try to be on trail by 4:00 AM and headed for the North Rim.
There are a few different routes to complete a Rim to Rim hike of the Grand Canyon. Our route would be to take the Bright Angel trail down about 4,500' to the Colorado River where we would pick up the North Kaibab trail back up about 5,900' to the North Rim. Depending upon what resource you refer to this is about a 23.5 mile route. The National Park Service discourages attempting a R2R traverse in a single day because of the distance, elevation change and grueling heat. Most people complete the route in 2-3 days stopping at campgrounds and/or the Phantom Ranch (all which require entering to get a permit). According to rimtorim.org less than 1% of the 6 million annual visitors embark on this hike.
That treadmill became my mistress and after training 5-6 days a week for a few months I spent most of the of the day in airports and flying, arriving in Phoenix on Thursday, May 13th. Upon stepping out of the terminal to catch the rental car shuttle I questioned whether we had landed in Phoenix or on the surface of the sun...It was HOT (there was still frost in the mornings at home). After a 20 minute shuttle ride I procured the rental and waited for the rest of the crew to arrive from Atlanta. Quick hellos and we loaded up the minivan off in search of tacos then north to the Cliff Castle Casino in Camp Verde, AZ for our first night's stay.
We left the casino Friday and continued north toward Sedona where Mallory, Kyle and myself hiked to Devil's Bridge while Bryan and Michael hiked Capitol Bute before we all headed to Flagstaff for pizza and groceries. After buying more groceries than we needed we rolled on to the South Rim where we had rooms reserved at the Yavapai Lodge. We checked in and set off to scout the trailheads and routes for Saturday's hike. After scoping out the trailheads we grabbed burgers from the lodge and then went to prep for tomorrow's big adventure and try to go to bed early and get some sleep.
Up at 2:45 AM we did our last minute preparations for our hike. We would drop Bryan and Kyle off at the South Kaibab trailhead at about 3:45 AM and then head to the Bright Angel trailhead to try to be on trail by 4:00 AM and headed for the North Rim.
There are a few different routes to complete a Rim to Rim hike of the Grand Canyon. Our route would be to take the Bright Angel trail down about 4,500' to the Colorado River where we would pick up the North Kaibab trail back up about 5,900' to the North Rim. Depending upon what resource you refer to this is about a 23.5 mile route. The National Park Service discourages attempting a R2R traverse in a single day because of the distance, elevation change and grueling heat. Most people complete the route in 2-3 days stopping at campgrounds and/or the Phantom Ranch (all which require entering to get a permit). According to rimtorim.org less than 1% of the 6 million annual visitors embark on this hike.
When we arrived at the Bright Angel trailhead it was cold and the wind was whipping. After some quick photos at the trailhead in the cold wind we headed down into the belly of the beast! Our headlamps illuminated the path before us and gave a small glimpse of the unknown ahead. You could see the glow of others that started before us and more coming behind us. It wasn't long before the sun began to cast its rays into the canyon giving light to the epic adventure ahead of us. Along with the light came the heat and it warmed up quickly. It wasn't long after the sun peeked over canyon walls that we were ready to start peeling layers.
We paused for our first water fill up at Indian Garden about five miles in. There is a small campground and ranger station nestled amongst the cottonwood trees along Garden Creek making its way toward the Colorado River. This is where we got another reminder of the extreme heat within the canyon. When we arrived about 6:00 AM it was already 70 degrees. The dramatic signage served as a stark reminder of the heat that awaited us. Even though it may be a cold to start at the rim the temps in the canyon often soar above 100 degrees.
We pushed on through the dramatic landscape and jaw dropping views as we worked our way down the rocky switchbacks along jagged rock walls. As we descended deeper into the canyon we could hear the sound of rushing water. The trail snaked through the rocks following Pipe Creek as it approached the Colorado River where we made the short detour off trail to put our hands in the river and reapply sunblock. Then, it was back on trail headed for the silver bridge over the river.
After crossing the bridge we stopped at the Bright Angel Campground for another water refill while guarding our packs from the squirrel bandits (I thought they were marmots...Thieves either way!). Topped off again we were just a short way from Phantom Ranch and a famous $5 lemonade. Once at Phantom Ranch we enjoyed a lemonade, turkey sandwich and chips from the pack. I took advantage of having ice and placed the remaining ice from my lemonade into my water flasks (It didn't last long). No time to dilly dally, back on trail pushing forward.
North of Phantom Ranch we followed Bright Angel Creek all the way to Manzanita. We crossed over the creek multiple times via foot bridges and into "The Box". The Box is an area where the canyon can heat up to intolerable temps with no reprieve from the sun in mid-day. It is recommended to be through The Box before 10:00 AM and after 4:00 PM. At one point where the canyon narrowed I was able to easily access the creek and took the opportunity to wash my face and arms and rinse my buff.
The stretch between Phantom Ranch and Cottonwood campground is about seven miles where the next water source without filtering is. A lot of this section is exposed with little shade and no easy access to Bright Angel Creek. But, if you did over-heat it would be worth finding a way to the creek to get in and drop your core temp. I stopped where Wall Creek crosses the trail to take a break and let to cool water run over my wrists and squeeze it over my head. I was going to filter water here but was told the next water source was just around the next corner and it wasn't worth filtering...He lied! If I had the energy I would have went back and throat punched him. I should have paid more attention to the distance between water here and carried an extra half liter leaving Phantom Ranch or stopped to filter when the path ran close to Bright Angel Creek.
What was just around the corner was the trail to Ribbon Falls. I would have liked to have went to the falls but the thought of extra steps and time removed it from consideration. I marched on to Cottonwood campground where I chugged water and refilled my flasks. At this point I think I was getting dehydrated and it was tough to get food down. Any fuel I tried to take in felt like it just grew in my mouth and had to be choked down. Which meant I also started getting behind on calories.
What was just around the corner was the trail to Ribbon Falls. I would have liked to have went to the falls but the thought of extra steps and time removed it from consideration. I marched on to Cottonwood campground where I chugged water and refilled my flasks. At this point I think I was getting dehydrated and it was tough to get food down. Any fuel I tried to take in felt like it just grew in my mouth and had to be choked down. Which meant I also started getting behind on calories.
When I reached the Manzanita water source I had the realization that there was no chance I would make it to the North Rim trailhead in time to catch our shuttle at 2:00 PM. I again splashed water on my face, filled my flasks and continued to grind. Shortly after Manzanita the trail begins to diverge from Bright Angel Creek as it passes Roaring Springs and climbs to the North Rim.
Kyle and Bryan were coming back down for their R2R2R hike. They seemed surprisingly fresh - everyone coming down seemed much more chipper than those going up. But, I know they had been putting in the work to prepare. They asked what I was going to do about the shuttle; my reply was something along the lines of figure it out. There was nothing I was going to do that would get me there in time. So, I figured I would work the problem when I got there.
It's only supposed to be about 3.7 miles from Manzanita to the Supai Tunnel and the next water source. After inching forward for what seemed like plenty of time to be nearing the tunnel I stopped for a break in the shade and asked some southbound runners coming down the trail about how much farther it was to the tunnel. I was dealt the harsh reality that I had only climbed a few tenths of mile and had already consumed about one liter of water. They offered me another liter since they were near their next water source. They also offered food but I had plenty of food and politely declined. Then she mentioned that she had a tangerine and my face must have lit up. I sat perched on that rock in the shade along the edge of the trail and enjoyed the refreshing taste of fresh fruit and the feeling of fuel reviving my body. This was the first thing I'd consumed in a while that I did not have to choke down. One of the cool things about an endeavor like this is the support of the community doing it.
Kyle and Bryan were coming back down for their R2R2R hike. They seemed surprisingly fresh - everyone coming down seemed much more chipper than those going up. But, I know they had been putting in the work to prepare. They asked what I was going to do about the shuttle; my reply was something along the lines of figure it out. There was nothing I was going to do that would get me there in time. So, I figured I would work the problem when I got there.
It's only supposed to be about 3.7 miles from Manzanita to the Supai Tunnel and the next water source. After inching forward for what seemed like plenty of time to be nearing the tunnel I stopped for a break in the shade and asked some southbound runners coming down the trail about how much farther it was to the tunnel. I was dealt the harsh reality that I had only climbed a few tenths of mile and had already consumed about one liter of water. They offered me another liter since they were near their next water source. They also offered food but I had plenty of food and politely declined. Then she mentioned that she had a tangerine and my face must have lit up. I sat perched on that rock in the shade along the edge of the trail and enjoyed the refreshing taste of fresh fruit and the feeling of fuel reviving my body. This was the first thing I'd consumed in a while that I did not have to choke down. One of the cool things about an endeavor like this is the support of the community doing it.
Feeling slightly rejuvenated I tucked the tangerine peel in my vest, gathered myself and continued putting one step in front of the other. The last 5 miles were an absolute grind that consisted of short term goals of making it to the next bit of shade for a break to allow my quads and hamstrings to stop cramping. The next goal was to get to the tunnel for water and the main goal was get to the trailhead! If you only focus on the end goal it can be overwhelming.
When I got to the tunnel there was a guy there that said Michael and Mallory were there about 40 minutes ago and had asked that he relay the message that they were there. Apparently I'm easy to describe and easy to recognize. It was oddly comforting that they too had missed the shuttle.
Another gentlemen there heard me say something about missing the shuttle and he said he could give me a ride when his daughter got there if I didn't mind riding on the floor of a van. I emphatically replied that I would not turn it down if I was still there when they made it up.
One last water refill and about two more miles of switchbacks to complete my R2R hike! This was the longest two miles I've ever walked. But, after starting a little over fourteen hours prior I made it out of the pain cave and to the North Rim! The North Rim was like race finish line with cheers for each person making the steps of the trailhead.
When I got to the tunnel there was a guy there that said Michael and Mallory were there about 40 minutes ago and had asked that he relay the message that they were there. Apparently I'm easy to describe and easy to recognize. It was oddly comforting that they too had missed the shuttle.
Another gentlemen there heard me say something about missing the shuttle and he said he could give me a ride when his daughter got there if I didn't mind riding on the floor of a van. I emphatically replied that I would not turn it down if I was still there when they made it up.
One last water refill and about two more miles of switchbacks to complete my R2R hike! This was the longest two miles I've ever walked. But, after starting a little over fourteen hours prior I made it out of the pain cave and to the North Rim! The North Rim was like race finish line with cheers for each person making the steps of the trailhead.
Michael and Mallory had been looking for a ride without success. Michael even walked up to the lodge in search of options. We eventually found someone heading back to the South Rim that had room for two more. We made the strategic decision to split up making it easier to find a ride for one person rather than three. So, Michael and Mallory were headed back and I continued polling the crowd, with the help of the nicest lady there crewing a runner, for anyone heading back to the South Rim.
Eventually, the guy I had the brief conversation with at the tunnel came up with his daughter who had also started at the South Rim that morning. I was relieved that he was still gracious enough to offer a stranger a ride. So, we made a pit stop at the lodge for a sandwich, chips and soda before making the four plus hour drive back to the South Rim. My new friends dropped me outside a room that I wasn't completely confident was our room. I gently slipped my room key into the slot and was relieved the light turned green and the door opened to Michael celebrating my arrival. Following a long car ride of cramps and increasing stiffness I arrived back at our room around 12:30 AM after waking up at 2:45 AM the previous morning.
What I Learned:
Distances in the canyon are deceiving. You see a certain mileage and begin to do calculations in your head based upon past experiences. You know what it should take you to do a certain distance and you mentally and physically begin to prepare for that. You also think that a particular amount of water should be sufficient to cover that distance. However, a distance that may normally take you thirty minutes now takes you a hour and a half which in turn means you need more water.
As expected, I needed more training, especially more training focused on leg strengthening. You need a good running base for the cardio and time on feet is critical but my legs gave out way before my cardio. I also need to figure out hydration and nutrition for that distance and effort. I got lulled into not taking in fuel and water as frequently as I had planned in the beginning because of the lower perceived effort. By Cottonwood campground I think I was behind on hydration which caused be to not want to eat and dig a hole for energy. Things I'd change:
Logistically, if I had it to do over I would leave a car at the the South Rim and take a shuttle to the North Rim on Friday. Stay Friday night at the North Rim and hike back to the South Rim on Saturday where I would have a room booked for Saturday night. Then I would hang around the the South Rim Sunday before driving to Flagstaff for another room Sunday night and fly out on Monday.
Gear Used
Eventually, the guy I had the brief conversation with at the tunnel came up with his daughter who had also started at the South Rim that morning. I was relieved that he was still gracious enough to offer a stranger a ride. So, we made a pit stop at the lodge for a sandwich, chips and soda before making the four plus hour drive back to the South Rim. My new friends dropped me outside a room that I wasn't completely confident was our room. I gently slipped my room key into the slot and was relieved the light turned green and the door opened to Michael celebrating my arrival. Following a long car ride of cramps and increasing stiffness I arrived back at our room around 12:30 AM after waking up at 2:45 AM the previous morning.
What I Learned:
Distances in the canyon are deceiving. You see a certain mileage and begin to do calculations in your head based upon past experiences. You know what it should take you to do a certain distance and you mentally and physically begin to prepare for that. You also think that a particular amount of water should be sufficient to cover that distance. However, a distance that may normally take you thirty minutes now takes you a hour and a half which in turn means you need more water.
As expected, I needed more training, especially more training focused on leg strengthening. You need a good running base for the cardio and time on feet is critical but my legs gave out way before my cardio. I also need to figure out hydration and nutrition for that distance and effort. I got lulled into not taking in fuel and water as frequently as I had planned in the beginning because of the lower perceived effort. By Cottonwood campground I think I was behind on hydration which caused be to not want to eat and dig a hole for energy. Things I'd change:
- Use my additional water capacity (total of 1.6 L)
- Keep one water bottle without supplements - I found I couldn't quench my thirst with the aftertaste of supplements
- Use electrolyte pills more than powder supplements in water - much easier to track
- Fruit - the tangerine was a lifesaver and the only palatable food when I was in a hole
- Trekking poles - I think they would have been a help on the long climb up to the North Rim
- Track my hydration - I had an alarm on my watch to eat every 30 min
- Don't use a watch for mileage - I had a cheat sheet with mileages between known points but focused on my watch which was not accurate because of the lack of GPS at time in the canyon
Logistically, if I had it to do over I would leave a car at the the South Rim and take a shuttle to the North Rim on Friday. Stay Friday night at the North Rim and hike back to the South Rim on Saturday where I would have a room booked for Saturday night. Then I would hang around the the South Rim Sunday before driving to Flagstaff for another room Sunday night and fly out on Monday.
Gear Used
- Drymax socks
- Saucony Peregrine 10
- Dirty Girls trail gaiters
- Skins compression sleeves
- Salomon trail shorts
- North Face Better Than Naked shirt
- Neleus hooded long sleeve dri-fit running shirt
- Salomon Advanced Skin 12 running vest
- Cooling buff/neck gaiter
- Under Armour bucket hat
- Tifosi sunglasses